Most rainwater is absorbed by the ground and fills the tiny spaces between soil particles. However, excess water runs over the top of the soil until it reaches a river, stream, or reservoir. Runoff water brings pollutants it encounters along the way to the reservoir.

As water seeps into the ground, it settles in the pores and cracks of underground rocks and into the spaces between grains of sand and pieces of gravel. In time, the water trickles down into a layer of rock or other material that is watertight. This watertight zone collects the groundwater, creating a saturated zone known as an aquifer. Aquifers in the United States are usually made from gravel, sandstone, limestone, or basalt (volcanic rock).

The water in the earth that these wells afford is at a place in the ground known as the water table. The water table is the level of the groundwater below the earth’s surface. This table is measured by the depth of the upper limit of the aquifer. The water table can be lowered by lack of precipitation or overdraft.

Overdraft occurs when water is removed from the aquifer at a faster rate than can be naturally replenished by rain or snow. The lowering of the water table causes problems such as land subsidence, surface cracking, sinkholes on the surface, and damage to the aquifer’s water producing character due to compaction. For instance, in the Chinese city of Shanghai, the earth was generally soft. People used to pump out groundwater from wells, leading to the eventual sinking of the surrounding strata. Shanghai’s city

government was forced to seal all wells in the city in the 1960s. In coastal areas, overdraft can lead to saltwater intrusion.

Saltwater intrusion occurs in low water tables where drops in water pressure can lead to the ocean backing up into the groundwater.

In a damp area, the water table can be reached simply by digging. In this case the well walls are usually lined with brick, stone, or concrete to keep the sides from caving in on the well. A dug well can be up to 50 feet (15 m) deep, and has the greatest diameter of any of the well types. Well

water that contains a high number of dissolved minerals is called a mineral well. Except for areas containing Karst formations, underground water is considered fairly clean because soils create a filter that remove toxins with large molecules.

If you have recently purchased a property that isn’t linked to a municip

al water line, come to Repairfinders.com and have a professional well and pump service help you today!

In order to find the forces exerted onto each pivot in the gear train of a watch, very sensitive measuring equipment would be needed, much more sensitive than what I have available to me. By creating a mathematical model of the forces in a watch, however, I could get an idea of what happens.

I will reverse the normal order of this project by presenting the conclusion first, in order not to deter those who are intimidated by the math. You would, however, benefit much more by reading the entire project.

Many watchmakers and clockmakers make the mistake of using the same thin lubricant for the first and second wheels as they do for the escapement. When lubricating a watch or clock, consider using the following rule of thumb:
1) use a heavy lubricant for high-torque, low-speed applications (mainspring, 1st and 2nd wheel pivots), and
2) use a light lubricant for low-torque, high-speed applications (3rd, 4th, escape wheel pivots, balance pivots, escape wheel teeth, clock strike governor pivots, etc.).

Also consider climate: Swiss watch oils are formulated in the Swiss Alps, and even most clock oils are almost as thin as water, at least in warm climates. While clock and watch oils have some thickness in colder climate conditions, they are very thin and less effective in warmer climates. We are not told to use different oils for timepieces intended for use in the cold Alps than for use in the hot desert.

Most if not all of my customers live in homes that today have climate control, so clocks in these homes do not get cold in the winter. Clocks that are not intended for use outside should be lubricated with thicker lubricants than those you might use for a clock that does not benefit from climate control. Watches used under normal conditions and worn on the wrist should not be lubricated with ultra-thin lubricants that you might use to lubricate a watch for use in extremely cold conditions, climbing high mountains or diving in cold waters. Timepieces for expeditions to the North and South Poles are usually not lubricated at all! When considering how thick a lubricant to use, you need to determine the thickness of that lubricant at the coldest temperature that the timepiece would be subjected to.

Why use a thicker lubricant if the timepiece were to be used in conditions that would not require a thinner lubricant? Thick lubricants have higher boiling points and they vaporize less easily. Thin lubricants vaporize easily: I have experienced problems with thin oils that dry up prematurely. I have seen several different clock oils dry up after only three years, and particularly one very expensive synthetic clock oil that dried up after only two years. A lubricant that fails after only two years not only fails to lubricate (reduce friction), but also fails to protect against oxidation. Thicker lubricants also have better cohesive and adhesive properties: in plain English, this means that a thicker lubricant stays in its place better when applied to a bushing without spreading or running off. If you consider the main purpose of lubricants, the benefit of a thicker lubricant becomes obvious: to reduce friction by providing a film between the two rubbing metal surfaces that keeps the metals apart. A good lubricant adheres to each metal surface to create this film and is not squeezed out under pressure. A good lubricant is cohesive so that it will exhibit good capillary action that will keep it in its place. A thicker lubricant has larger molecules (a longer carbon chain in the case of petroleum-based lubricants) and therefore provides a thicker film that keeps the metals further apart and resists higher pressures. As lubricant molecules slide over one another, some resistance to movement is caused, which we call ‘drag’ and which increases with the thickness of the lubricant. In low-torque applications, drag can impair the performance of the timepiece if the lubricant is too thick.

A couple of years ago, I lubricated a 16-size Elgin watch with a tower-clock oil, since I am not afraid to experiment with my own timepieces. It worked very well indeed and kept very good time. When I lowered the temperature by 40º Fahrenheit (in the refrigerator), this watch kept much better time than I was expecting (about thirty seconds slower per day), and there was a small decrease in the amplitude of oscillation of its balance wheel. At about the same time, I overhauled a Swiss watch of similar size and lubricated it with a very expensive synthetic watch oil: two years later, the watch hardly runs because the lubricant appears to have dried up.

Use a heavier lubricant for high-torque, low-speed applications. Clockmakers should consider using a heavy oil or grease to lubricate the mainspring, the pivots of the great wheel and second wheel. When applying a grease, you should apply a film over the entire area of the pivot and also over the entire area inside the bushing before assembly, because a thick lubricant will not spread by itself. Watchmakers should consider using a heavier lubricant to lubricate the mainspring, the pivots of the barrel and centershaft and third wheel. The watch’s winding parts should be lubricated with a heavier lubricant. One problem frequently encountered in automatic watches is wear in the rotor arbor and its bushing: a heavier lubricant should be used here because the rotor is relatively heavy.

Use a thinner lubricant for low-torque, high-speed applications. This includes the pivots of the fourth and fifth wheels and of the pallet arbor in watches and clocks, and also the impulse faces of the pallets and escape teeth in clocks.

Use a light lubricant on the balance wheel pivots and the impulse faces of the pallets and escape teeth in low grade watches, such as a 7-jewel pocketwatch, where a small sacrifice in timekeeping could reasonably be made in order to use a lubricant of longer durability. Use an ultra-light lubricant in these areas in high-grade watches, such as a 23 jewel Railroad watch, where precision timekeeping is a necessity, but be aware that ultra-light lubricants have a tendency to dry up in the short term. Use ultra-light lubricants in watches that are subjected to extreme conditions of low temperature.

Take a moment to consider over-powered clocks with recoil escapements (which require plenty of excess power, as much as 50% more than a Graham Escapement), versus a low power clock with a more efficient Graham Escapement, such as a Vienna Regulator clock. An over-powered recoil escapement should be lubricated with a heavier lubricant, particularly because of the enormous power losses in recoil. A low-power clock should be lubricated with a lighter lubricant in the escapement.

Consider a typical watch, in this case, a 16-size, 17-jewel pocket watch. Assuming that torque is proportional to the normal force on the gear’s pivot, where a normal force is the force pushing the pivot against the bushing or jewel, in the direction of the force that acts upon that gear’s pinion: if the torque that acts upon the 2nd wheel pivots were taken as 100%, the torque that acts upon the 3rd wheel pivots would be smaller by the ratio of the number of teeth on the 2nd wheel pinion and the number of teeth on the 2nd wheel, or 10/80 x 100% = 12.5%. Using ratios, a chart (see end) of percentage torque values could be created to show the relative torque values that act upon the pivots of each gear in the train, and also the pallet arbor pivots and the balance staff pivots. Using ratios, another chart showing the revolutions per minute (RPM) that each gear would make could also be made.

Using typical pivot diameter sizes for a 16-size watch, the circumference of each pivot could be calculated, each of which could be multiplied by the respective RPM value for that gear to find the amount of sliding that each pivot makes inside each jewel in one hour of operation, sliding that I refer to as ‘displacement’ in the chart (see end), as if each pivot were traveling a certain distance. A figure for each relative frictional loss could be obtained by multiplying each value of torque with each value of displacement or sliding. Each relative frictional loss could then be expressed as a percentage to reveal where the frictional losses really take place.

To find the RPM value of the pallet arbor pivots, take the degrees of rotation per beat, assumed here to be 18º (a high value), divide by 360º and multiply by 300 beats per hour to get 15 revolutions per minute. To find the RPM value of the balance pivots, multiply 300 beats per hour by the amplitude of oscillation of the balance wheel, assumed here to be 1.5 turns, to get 450 RPM.

If one third the torque of the escape wheel reaches the balance wheel, multiply the torque value for the torque that acts upon the pallets by 0.33.

Finding the frictional loss during impulse is more complicated, since this requires us to find the circumference of the escape wheel that is in contact with the pallet during impulse, neglecting the power lost during drop. Take the diameter of the escape wheel and multiply its value by pi to find its circumference. Find the circumference per beat by multiplying this by the degrees during impulse (10º) and divide by 360º. This value must be divided by the cosine of the impulse angle, which I have assumed to be 45º, to find the length of impulse, or ‘distance traveled’ during each impulse. Multiply this by 300 beats per minute to find the total length of impulse in one minute (the ‘displacement per minute’), which you multiply by the torque acting upon the pallet to find a friction value.

The same method is used to calculate a value for the frictional loss in the fork horn and the roller jewel. The frictional loss is determined by the amount of sliding that takes place, which is assumed to be equal to the amount of depthing. I have assumed the depthing to be 0.07 mm. in this example.

The same method is used to calculate a value for the frictional loss during draw. The relative value of this loss is very small. The loss of efficiency caused by draw is mainly caused by angle, which we do not consider here, and not by friction. The loss by friction is relatively small and less than expected because it does not consider the total loss caused by draw.

The friction % values in the chart reveal nothing by themselves, but their relative values can be compared. The frictional losses in the pivots of the gear train are very small. The frictional losses in the pivots of the balance wheel are considerably more. Most significantly, the frictional losses in the pallets during impulse are very large because of two factors:
1) the ‘displacement’ during impulse is 85% more than the ‘displacement’ during the rotation of the balance wheel.
2) the torque during impulse is 2.75 times that which is exerted onto the balance wheel.
The results might tempt the watchmaker to lubricate the balance jewels and the escape wheel teeth only, leaving all other jeweled bearings dry (not a good idea!).

The values of torque show how much torque is exerted on the pivots of the first three gears in the train. It would make sense to consider lubricating these pivots with a heavy lubricant or even a grease as these high-torque, low-speed bearings would not suffer the effects of a heavy lubricant. The remaining pivots and friction surfaces are very low torque (less than 2% each). It would make sense to consider lubricating these pivots with a light lubricant as these low-torque, high-speed bearings would certainly suffer the effects of a heavy lubricant, which would cause drag.

The most important point to consider is that more power is lost in the transfer of power from the escape wheel to the pallets in a Swiss Lever type escapement. There are two power losses:
1) Power losses caused by angle. When the direction of the force exerted by the escape wheel onto the pallet is different to the direction of movement of the pallet (i.e. the direction in which the pallet receives the power), there is a loss of efficiency: in a correctly designed Lever Escapement the angle between the directions of the forces is 90º and the maximum achievable efficiency is only 50%. This power loss considers only angle and nothing else.
2) Power losses caused by friction. When the power is transferred in a ‘rolling’ action, as happens when the escape tooth rotates and provides an impulse to the impulse pallet of the balance wheel in a Chronometer Escapement, the transferor (escape tooth) and the transferee (impulse pallet of balance) appear to roll together, which results in an almost frictionless transfer of power. In the Lever Escapement, however, the escape tooth slides across the pallet’s impulse face, causing a frictional loss that is determined by the magnitude of the impulse, the coefficient of friction of the two sliding surfaces and the displacement (or the amount of sliding that takes place during impulse).

By the way, note that in the Chronometer Escapement the direction of the forces is the same at the mid-point of the impulse, which means that this design experiences almost no power loss as a result of angle, in addition to almost no power loss as a result of friction (because there is almost no sliding taking place during impulse). The escape teeth of the Chronometer Escapement should not be lubricated.

The escape teeth of the Lever Escapement should be lubricated most carefully. Each tooth should be lubricated with a minute amount of lubricant because it should not be assumed that the lubricant would spread evenly over all the teeth otherwise. Since a light lubricant must be used, the watchmaker must be very careful not to lubricate in excess, as this might cause the lubricant to run, or be drawn away from the intended area.

As in any simplified hypothetical scenario, assumptions are made to simplify the problem and to overcome otherwise insurmountable or even unquantifiable problems.

This scenario does not consider the efficiency loss caused by the angle of the pallet impulse face because the loss caused by angle is not reduced with lubrication. The only efficiency loss that is reduced with lubrication is friction, and it is therefore only the frictional losses that are considered here.

It is assumed that the coefficient of friction is the same for all the friction surfaces, that all the pivots are in the same condition and that all the jewel surfaces are in the same condition (with no variations).

It is assumed that there is no frictional loss when the pivot shoulder rubs against the jewel, as if each jewel in the train were capped.

It is assumed that the masses of the gears, pallets and balance wheel have no impact upon friction. While the masses of the first four gears are of negligible influence upon the results, the masses of the escape wheel, the pallets and the balance wheel are significant. Their influence on the results is, however, ignored because their relative effects are unquantifiable. Of particularly significant impact is the mass of the balance wheel, which in a 16-size watch is relatively large, increasing the friction considerably as the balance pivots rotate in the jewels. In the hypothetical scenario, it is assumed that the balance wheel’s torque percentage is equal to the impulse received by the roller jewel, which is probably an underestimation for a watch with a heavy balance wheel. Despite this problem, the results are still useful because its percentage of the total frictional loss in the watch would not reach the level of friction in the pallet impulse faces unless it were increased by six times. Increasing the value of friction of the balance wheel pivots would decrease the relative friction percentage values of the other friction surfaces but it does not change the conclusion (instead, it serves to reinforce the conclusion):

The two areas where the most power is lost in a watch are the balance pivots (in their jewels) and the pallet impulse surfaces and the escape teeth during impulse.

I believe that much more power is lost during impulse because of friction (in addition to losses caused by angle) than anywhere else in the watch. The watchmaker should pay most attention here.

I am including torque calculation charts for two very common clocks so that clockmakers could see the relationships between the torque and RPM values for a typical American clock (a Seth Thomas 89) and a typical German chiming clock with a floating-balance (a Hermle 340-020). These differ from the watch chart in order to show how the friction is distributed in the gear train itself without considering the escapement: this information would be more useful to clockmakers. Notice how similar the friction percentage values are for the Seth Thomas clock. In the Hermle, the torque values have been adjusted to account for the stronger chime mainspring. These charts have two RPM columns to show that in the left column calculations were made up the column, and that in the right column calculations were made down the column. Observe how little torque the escape wheel receives: in the Seth Thomas, 289 times more torque acts upon the second wheel’s pivots than upon the escape wheel’s pivots. In the Hermle, 1650 times more torque acts upon the second wheel’s pivots than upon the escape wheel’s pivots.

Since thicker lubricants cause more drag, consider the bushings: a pivot turning in a longer bushing will be more affected by lubricant drag than one turning in a shorter bushing because of a larger area of lubricant film. However, using a longer bushing reduces the pressure on the bushing and the pivot because pressure is force divided by area. Most American clocks have very long pivots that protrude well beyond the bushing: in high-torque, low-speed applications, you might consider installing longer bushings that protrude beyond the plates, since longer bushings would be more durable, if the clock being repaired were not a high-grade work of engineering art and repair-as-art would not be called for. A mass-produced clock of lower grade, such as the Seth Thomas 89, would be well served by 3 mm bushings in the second wheel bushings. The bushings must not be longer than the pivots, however, so this could not be done to the Hermle clock’s second wheels, for example.

Last, but not least, consider the difference in the rate of movement of the three trains of the Hermle movement. Most of the time, the clock neither chimes or strikes, but when it does, the gears move much faster. Looking at the chart below, you could see the effect this has on friction in the chime and strike trains. While looking at this chart, you will also see that there is more friction in the 3rd wheel pivots of the chime and time trains than in the 2nd wheel pivots: you would expect the reverse since more power acts upon the 2nd wheel pivots and since more wear takes place in the 2nd wheel bushings. If less friction takes place in the 2nd wheel bushings, you would expect less wear. This suggests that the increase in wear takes place not because of friction but because of something else: the yield pressure of the metal is exceeded, causing premature failure which we see as small pits in the pivot. The pressure on the pivot can be decreased by:
1) using a thinner mainspring (which we do not want to do in this case),
2) increasing the diameter of the pivot (the new Hermle 2nd wheels have slightly larger pivots),
3) replacing the pivots with a different metal that has a high yield pressure,
4) lubricating these pivots with a lubricant that has a very high yield pressure (that is, a very thick lubricant, a grease), keeping the metals apart so that this failure does not occur.

No lubricant lasts forever, so lubricating these pivots with a heavy lubricant would one day end in failure unless the clock were maintained before the lubricant fails. Since almost everybody uses their clocks until they will not run at all before they bring them in for repair, clockmakers should consider using a grease on the 2nd wheel pivots that has graphite: the magic of graphite is that it continues to work after the lubricant has failed! Either buy a lubricant with graphite added, or buy the graphite powder and mix some into the lubricant before applying it to the pivots and bushings. Many clockmakers do not like graphite because they think it is messy and makes the clock look ugly. The choice is yours, but I must say that I do not care much for a beautiful clock that does not work.

I have very carefully avoided recommending any particular lubricant or any particular brand of lubricant, as this is a very volatile issue. I have, however, had very unsatisfactory results with synthetic lubricants, and will never use them on my clocks or watches.

Source: Headrick Antique Clock Repair

Find top quality clock and watch repair specialists in Los Angeles at Repairfinders.com today!

I have really enjoyed reading your blogs on various repair and maintenance industries. I’m listed with the Los Angeles branch of Repairfinders.com and I figured I could perhaps contribute with a little bit on my field: Interior Design and Decoration.

Some may be curious as to how a person can call themselves a professional interior designer. They may think, “How does that person make so much money when they just buy stuff to make rooms look better? It’s so simple, even a chimp could do it!” Well, this blog is going to inform the uninformed about what it takes for people like me to call ourselves interior designers.

Disciplines Used in Interior Design

There is a wide range of disciplines within the career of interior design. Some of the disciplines include: structure, function, specialized performance, special group needs, discipline needed for business, computer technology, presentation skills, craft skills, social disciplines, promotional disciplines, professional disciplines, aesthetic disciplines, and disciplines with cultural implications. This list shows how interior designing encompasses many different disciplines and requires both education in science and technology as well as being moved.

The Design Process

Regardless of the building-type the process is identical. The first step is determining the client’s objectives, timescale and budget. This is called taking a Brief. The objective is nearly always to improve revenue for the client – even householders will be considering the resale value of their home. The designer will then provide a Fee Proposal which outlines their design input and the cost for this. It will be made clear whether the interior design practice will procure goods and/or project manage and the costs or margins for this also. Working drawings are required prior to any design work, these are detailed survey drawings of the existing space. The very first step once commissioned on the project will be creating these drawings if none already exist.

Today, designers use computer-aided design (CAD) although hand sketches are still valued for their “personality”. CAD is a programme used to communicate design solutions in realistic views at various angles. This programme eliminates long hours of hand-drawing and sketching.

Following the survey and working drawing, the initial concepts will be presented to the client for approval. If approved this is followed by the floor plans and then the detailed specifications of all alterations, finishes and furnishings. It is probable that doors, windows and walls will be repositioned. Also, of major importance is the approach to the building – so the exterior is always considered along with the interior design.

Naturally, only if the design practice handles procurement or project management will they take on these roles. Many design specifications will be included in a tender package which will ultimately be used by a building contractor, or fit-out contractor as it is often called, to fulfil the design for the client. The on-site stage of the design can be many months or even years after the design specification is completed.

Education for Interior Design

Postsecondary education, especially a bachelor’s degree, is recommended for positions in interior design. Within the United States there are 24 states, the District of Columbia, and Puerto Rico, that have some form of interior design legislation with regard to title and practice. The National Council of Interior Design Qualification (NCIDQ) administers a licensing exam. To be eligible to take the exam, a candidate must have a minimum of six years of combined education and experience in the field, where at least two years includes postsecondary education. Once the examination has been successfully taken, the designer may indicate that they are an NCIDQ certificate holder. In certain jurisdictions, this is linked to the ability to practice or self-identify as an interior designer. The laws vary greatly across the United States and in some jurisdictions, NCIDQ certification is required in order for the designer to call themselves a Certified, Registered, or Licensed Interior Designer. In others, however, there are no minimum qualifications and anyone with a desire to do so may call themselves an interior designer. Continuing education is required by some states as part of maintaining a license.

Alabama has recently rolled back legislation regarding the licensing and practice of interior design. It is important to note that there is a difference between title acts which restrict who can call themselves an interior designer and practice acts that limit who can actually practice activities defined as within the scope of interior design.

Well, Jack, I hope this can help you with a future posting, perhaps. I will see you around!

“Donna”

Lets go over the basics of telephone wiring. Once you understand the basics, troubleshooting becomes a breeze. It may be time consuming, but a breeze. And at $40 or more for a half hour’s service from the telephone repair guy, the wind will be at your back!!

The really basic basics of telephone wiring…

Though you may have hundreds of feet of phone wire and countless connections, telephone wiring is really simple and logical. Take a walk around your house, and we’ll figure it out together.

The telephone company, bless their souls, provides you with service through four wires or more wires leading to the outside of your house (there is actually more to it than that, but you don’t need to know more to work on your own stuff). These wires connect to a box called a network interface, usually located outside your home for ease of access by the telephone company. It’s also referred to as a protector (just the sound of it makes you tingle, eh?) The name “protector” is apt… it protects your house telephone wiring from unusual electrical surges from lightning strikes, power lines that may touch outside telephone cables, etc. Not a foolproof system, but very effective 99.9% of the time. The protector can often be found near your electrical service (meter), because the phone company and the electric company use the same criteria for choosing an access point to your home.

The network interface acts as your main junction box- the place where all telephone cables leading into your house originate. Usually, part of it is off limits to you. It may be sealed with a lock, or screwed shut. This is where the phone company makes its connections. The wiring colors will not correspond with the color coding of your interior telephone wires.

The customer-accessible side uses the standard color coding that you will run into again and again in all telephone work. Most common telephone cables have four wires inside… red, green, black and yellow.  In the trade they are referred to as “pairs”.  The red-green pair is used for basic one line service, and the black-yellow pair is used to provide a second line.

If you look at the blowup of the network interface to the left, you will see that there is a “block” with six colored screws.  There are three pairs together… yellow-black, red-green and a second yellow-black.  You will also notice that there are wires connected to the red and green terminals.  In this connector, there is only one live telephone line… line 1.  Though the connector can carry up to three lines, for ease of customer use they usually only install one line per connector.  If you had three lines, you would have one connector serving one line, and the second connector serving two lines.  This network interface box has two such connectors, so this home could conceivably have up to six telephone lines installed.

The actual connection to your wiring is made through the telephone jack in the connector by means of the removable plug attached to the black wire.  Disconnecting this plug disables the telephone lines attached to the connector.  This plug makes troubleshooting a little easier, since you can plug a tester into the jack to see if the telephone company’s lines are okay (more later on troubleshooting).

Some older homes do not have easily accessible interfaces…

In older homes, the protector outside your home is a sealed box that does not allow customer access.  It contains a special fuse to stop lightning from reaching your inside wiring.  Essentially, it is a starting point for a standard 4-wire cable to enter the house, and you have no easy access to its innards!

Why was the phone company protective of its protector?  Part of the reason for this is that, years ago, the phone company did it all… they owned all the phones, the wires, and the jacks, and it was illegal for you to mess with the wiring. So they had no incentive to make direct access to the inside of the protector available to you. Hooking your phone cables directly to the protector is advantageous because the telephone signal is the strongest there, and I recommend it when and if possible. In fact, if you have an older style protector, many phone companies will replace it with a modern connector, such as pictured above, at no charge. Especially if you are having phone problems or Internet connection problems!! Just cry and beg like I did!

A second important reason why homeowners were denied access is because of the fear that they would connect wires to the unprotected side of the box, leaving their wiring systems vulnerable to lightning surges and the possibly disastrous consequences!

So if you have an old-style sealed protector, your access to the telephone company is via a run of cable (usually 4 wire, or two pair) that enters your house and is connected to a junction block or entrance bridge. Junction blocks are rectangular plates that use screws to connect each of the four service wires (from the phone co.) together with your inside wires. A junction block has four terminals that hold the wires together with screws.  The wires from the telephone company and your inside wires share a common screw based on the wire color… all reds to one terminal, blacks to another, etc.  This system was great when people maybe had two phones (if they were filthy rich), but get a little crowded with three or four pair running off them to multiple telephone jacks.

Historically, junction blocks originated when homes had just one  telephone line and one telephone.  A single wire entered the home and went to a single jack.  As years went by and people began wanting more convenient telephones, additional wires were run off the junction block to service other phones.  After about two connections, the blocks were jammed with wires and difficult to work with.  Enter the entrance bridge… a vast improvement.  Instead of having the telephone wires run to a junction block in the living area, the entrance bridge was installed in a basement or utility room.  Entrance bridges perform the same function as junction blocks, but the incoming telephone company wires do not directly touch your home’s cable wires. Instead, they use various methods of securing the wires onto an insulated metal frame which provides the connection.  As you can see in the graphic, the telephone company’s wires (entering the graphic from the bottom) each attach to a block with two screw terminals.  Up to two telephone lines with two separate cables (upstairs and downstairs, for example) could be attached without the necessity of wire-sharing on a terminal.

As you can see, entrance bridges can hold more wire connections than junction blocks, and since each connection is separate are your preferred choice for new or replacement installations.  You will have both a better electrical connection, less chance of wires inadvertently touching and less confusing wiring!

To summarize, two wires provide all your phone service if you have one line, four wires if you have two lines. And all of your wall phones, cordless phones, computer modems, answering machines, fax machines and even your remote home security system lead back to the phone company via these little wires.

If you don’t want to risk making anything worse, contact our phone repair specialists in Los Angeles today at Repairfinders.com!

The First Step

Remodeling, refurbishing or restoring your existing residence may be exactly what the doctor ordered. Do the spaces you live in and your lifestyle mesh? Perhaps you have considered adding a home office or you need more space to accommodate a growing family. Then again, you may have ample space, but finishes throughout look tired and worn. And, there are so many “vanilla” houses, lacking sparkle and personality. Whatever your motivations, when considering whether to remodel or not remodel, hiring a professional interior designer can be the most important step you take.

Contractors, Architects and Interior Designers

Many people will go directly to a builder or contractor, to obtain pricing and ideas. But, consider this…contractors are not trained to help you make interior design decisions. They are experts in building the designs designers create. This is not to say they don’t have ideas, but will they be the correct ones? Utilizing architects is often necessary. Will they be interested in helping you through the whole process through to completion. There will be stucco treatments to consider, molding and trim details, paint selections, wallpaper or faux finishes to think about, flooring, plumbing and lighting decisions on through to determining drapery treatments, furnishings and accessories. Architects are often very busy, more expensive and not as interested in spending time on all the interior details you wish to consider in your newly created space.

Current Market Trends

Even if it is only for a few hours, consulting with a professional interior designer will help clarify many issues and speed up the process. The fee you might pay for a few hours of an expert’s opinion will serve you handsomely in the long run. Professionals will help you decide which areas are the most important to consider. What are the most cost-effective, highest-impact changes to make? So often, a professional will see things you do not see, because, of course, this is what they are trained to do. They are also more focused, objective and function oriented. Each and every day they are immersed in the world of design, visiting showrooms throughout the world, traveling, in and out of client’s homes and offices, and experiencing the finest of what is available within the marketplace. They can walk into your home, and within a few hours give you hundreds of valuable ideas to contemplate before you invest in a remodeling project. And, you will be better able to proceed with confidence, knowing you are making the right decisions.

Property Values

Examining your location, existing property values, and potential expenditures are essential. Often homeowners, if they have not attempted a project of this nature in many years, will experience sticker shock. Designers can discuss current prices to consider, based on their experience within the market, and help determine which amenities would be the best to add. It can be helpful to tour other homes on the market in your neighborhood, as well as other areas in town for comparisons. Does your home offer similar amenities? If you have owned your home for many years and attained substantial equity, you may be able to improve your surroundings without exceeding the current market value.

The Right Choices

Whether you live in a small home or a huge mansion, an interior designer will help you with interior selections appropriate to your lifestyle and price range. You can always spend more, but you can also spend less. Which investments reap the greatest rewards? Will you be able to get your money back out of the property when it sells? Bathrooms and kitchens are great areas to consider remodeling. These areas tend to date a home more than any other, but they are generally the most expensive areas to revamp. Family rooms and large master bedrooms and baths are often good choices. Everything is bigger than in years past including closets. But, you might be surprised with what a designer offers in terms of design options. And, if you go through the inconvenience of a remodeling project, there may be other areas throughout the house, needing only small improvements, which would be inexpensive to tackle while the workforce is present.

Quality Workmanship

It is best to obtain bids from a minimum of three contractors in your area. Examine their credentials, their references and ask to see samples of recent work. A general rule of thumb is to throw out the lowest and highest bids, and after researching the remaining companies, go with the firm you feel is capable of handling your project. A designer can often provide you with several recommendations of reputable firms or act in a supervisory position to handle the many details that will crop up. In the midst of a project, issues will emerge which need to be addressed and having a reliable source for answers will simplify the process and keep the project on target.

Delays and Frustration

Be prepared for inconveniences along the way. The disruption of having workmen in and out for weeks or months at a time can not be under-estimated, no matter how talented they are or how patient you might be. We are creatures of habit and it can be quite an experience to be displaced for any length of time. Permits, inspections, weather, material delays, and improper planning contribute to delays in a project. When hiring a contractor ask for an estimated completion date. Extend the timetable given to include another month or more, depending on the size of the project. You will then be mentally prepared for the inevitable. Unfortunately, remodeling often takes longer than initially expected.

Additional Work

Having a shell of a room is not what you are after. Projects are, many times, bid on a cost plus basis. Any increases in materials and labor reflected in the marketplace add to the cost of the project. Additional work orders implemented after the initial agreement increase the costs as well. Adding 10% to a contractors bid will help prevent shortages requiring cutbacks and provide flexibility for upgrades as you see fit.

Reap the Rewards

If you have ever been through a major remodeling project, you may never wish to go through one again, but it may be because you absolutely love the transformation and are thoroughly content with the results. Remodeling can take a ho-hum home and make it a place you enjoy day in and day out. After all, it is not so much a matter of what we have, but how we use what we have, that matters. If you love your home and your neighborhood, remodeling may just be the answer for you. And, your interior designer will be happy to help you create a space that works well and pleases you at every turn.

That’s written on Wikipedia.com

Masons used to be held in very high value centuries ago because they were the main source of civil expansion. They built the castle and protective walls, thus were considered almost heroes! That’s why there are groups like the freemasons and what not. So let’s explore what these people do, shall we?

Masonry is commonly used for the walls of buildings, retaining walls and monuments. Brick is the most common type of masonry and may be either weight-bearing or a veneer. Concrete block masonry is rapidly gaining in popularity as a comparable material. Blocks – most of which have hollow cores – offer various possibilities in masonry construction. They generally provide great compressive strength, and are best suited to structures with light transverse loading when the cores remain unfilled. Filling some or all of the cores with concrete or concrete with steel reinforcement (typically “rebar”) offers much greater tensile and lateral strength to structures.

Stone blocks used in masonry can be “dressed” or “rough.” Stone masonry utilizing dressed stones is known as ashlar masonry, whereas masonry using irregularly shaped stones is known as rubble masonry. Both rubble and ashlar masonry can be laid in courses (rows of even height) through the careful selection or cutting of stones, but a great deal of stone masonry is uncoursed.

Natural stone veneers over CMU, cast-in-place, or tilt-up concrete walls are widely used to give the appearance of stone masonry.

Sometimes “river rock” (oval shaped smooth stones) is used as a veneer. This type of material is not favored for solid masonry as it requires a great amount of mortar and can lack intrinsic structural strength.

Manufactured-stone veneers are maturing in their popularity as an alternative to natural stones. Attractive natural stone has become more expensive in many areas and in some areas is practically unavailable. Manufactured-stone veneers are typically made from concrete. Natural stones from quarries around the world are sampled and recreated using moulds, aggregate, and colorfast pigments. To the casual observer there may be no visual difference between veneers of natural and manufactured stone.

Masonry boasts an impressive compressive strength (vertical loads) but is much lower in tensile strength (twisting or stretching) unless reinforced. The tensile strength of masonry walls can be strengthened by thickening the wall, or by building masonry “piers” (vertical columns or ribs) at intervals. Where practical, steel reinforcement also can be introduced vertically and/or horizontally to greatly increase tensile strength, though this is most commonly done with poured walls.

If you’re looking for a qualified masonry service in Los Angeles, visit Repairfinders.com and get a free quote from our listed professionals today!

Scientists consider only 1 percent of all cockroach species as pests.

This fact and other details about the group of widely loathed insects called Blattodea are now available in the first online database of the world’s cockroaches, launched this month by the Natural History Museum, London.

Highlights of the Blattodea Species File Online:

* The world’s heaviest cockroach: the Australian rhinoceros cockroach, which weighs as much as 1 ounce (30 grams) or the same as three adult small perching songbirds, called blue tits.

* The smallest: the North American Attaphila fungicola, about three millimeters long or a bit longer than a red ant, lives in the nests of leafcutter ants.

* Greatest wingspan: the Central and South American Megaloblatta blaberoides, which has a spread of up to 7 inches (185 millimeters).

* Noisiest: Madagascar hissing cockroaches.

George Beccaloni, a cockroach expert at the Natural History Museum, assembled the database from a 1,224-page catalog by Karlis Princis, published in eight parts between 1862 and 1971.

“Cockroaches are a really amazing group of insects,” Beccaloni said. “There are about 4,500 described species, so [that means] ones that scientists have actually named,” but probably about two or three times that number remain undiscovered.

Cockroaches get a lot of bad press, he says, and there is a lot of misinformation spread about them.

“People think that cockroaches are the only creatures that could survive nuclear war. That’s not actually true,” Beccaloni said. “They certainly are much more resistant than humans but far less resistant than many other insects.”

Regardless, a direct nuclear blast would incinerate a cockroach, other scientists say.

But there is no question that cockroaches are hardy. Studies have found they can live several days after being decapitated. And when times are tough, those with heads can survive by eating glue or each other.

Among cockroaches that do tend to invade the home, their presence is often preventable. They seek damp spots created by leaky pipes, and they’re also attracted to grease and other food waste. Plugging bug-sized entrance holes into your kitchen is often an effective deterrent.

Perhaps the one cockroach that most deserves its bad rap is the termite, which though most people don’t realize it, is actually a cockroach that evolved to eat wood.

If you have a pest problem, come to Repairfinders.com and find a professional pest control service who can get rid of any bugs, rodents, or any other kind of invasive animal today!

Today we’re going to briefly cover wood flooring. I’m sorry these past few blogs have been so short, it’s getting really busy around here! Anyway…

Wood flooring is without doubt the most popular choice when it comes to installing a new flooring option.

Available in a wide range of hardwoods and softwoods, wood will last forever and needs little maintenance in order to keep its appeal and beauty.

A modern addition to today’s range of floors is laminate floors. Laminates have brought look-alike flooring options to consumers that may not be able to afford a real wood floor – and the good news is that they look great!

Many people discover an old wood floor underneath old carpet and wonder whether they can restore it to its former glory. The answer is almost always “Yes”, unless it is suffering from a serious rot problem or some form of boring beetle. Even then, it is always worth getting a second opinion from an expert before consigning your floor to the garbage tip.

If cost is a prime factor in the choice between laminate or solid wood, consider the fact that there is a ready market in second-hand flooring. This is available from specialist dealers or individuals who can’t spare the time and effort it takes to prepare an old wood floor. Nails may need to be removed and there may be a few bumps and dents in it – but if cost is an issue, don’t overlook it.

Another important issue you should consider when buying any new solid wood product is where it comes from. There are unfortunately suppliers who aren’t too bothered whether their supplies are purchased from sustainable resources or not, so always look for a properly accredited supplier. In the US the Forest Stewardship Council (fscus.org) offers certification that consumers can trust when it comes to purchasing timber products.

Some popular solid hardwood flooring are Oak, Cherry, Maple, Bamboo Flooring, Walnut, Beech and Ash.

For each of these flooring options there are different grades of floor available. Grading refers to the quality of a floor with regard to its color and graining appearance. Sometimes what you see in the supplier’s brochure isn’t quite what you get when the product is laid. You should always make sure that you are viewing at the showroom is what you will get at home, but always remember that wood is a natural product and no two pieces will be the same – one of the beauties of natural wood floor.

Well I hope you got some useful knowledge out of today’s entry. Remember to come to our site if you need any kind of flooring done in your home!

-Jack

“The television set has been and will continue to be the hub of the American home entertainment system for some time. Emerging technologies and expanded programming have driven consumers to purchase television sets with more features and at a higher cost. Knowing how to make a few basic repairs to your own television set can save you the time and money of consulting a professional over a simple problem, and even protect you from the unnecessary purchase of a new set.

However, home repair enthusiasts, experienced or otherwise, should note that television sets contain dangerously high voltages (more than 30,000) and even “quick fixes” should not be handled lightly. When making any repairs, wear safety glasses and work gloves at all times.

One of the most common malfunctions in cable televisions is a blurred (or snowy) picture. Most often, this is caused by a flaw in the coaxial cable connecting the TV (or VCR) to the cable antenna: the wiring itself may be flawed or the fitting may be loose. To determine if this is the case, turn the television on and wiggle the coaxial cable where it enters the television and where it enters the cable output. If the snow on the screen wavers (gets better or worse), you know there is a problem with the cable. Also, you can try using the same cable on another television in your house. If it produces a snowy picture there also, you know there is a problem with that cable. Replacing the cable is inexpensive and easy: they can be found in the electronics section of most department stores and hardware stores in a variety of lengths and colors. Be sure to properly dispose of the flawed cable.

Another common malfunction that occurs in television sets is blotches of color, which may be particularly apparent around the edges of the screen. This can happen if the television screen becomes magnetized, which will occur if the television is placed near other electronic equipment, such as stereo speakers. While most televisions contain a circuit that will automatically de-magnetize the screen, this circuit may be damaged or otherwise malfunctioning. To de-magnetize the television yourself, you will need to purchase a strong magnetic coil: these can be found at most hardware stores. Hold the coil in the upper left hand corner, a few inches away from the screen (a rainbow pattern should appear on the screen). Making small circular motions, move the coil around the screen (the rainbow pattern should fluctuate). Increase the size of your circular motions until you have covered the entire screen and then slowly back away from the television set, continuing to make circular motions. When the coil loses contact with the screen, the blotches of color should be gone. In order to successfully de-magnetize the set, you may need to repeat these steps several times.

Replacing a television speaker that emits static noise can be simple, but requires caution because it entails removing the back cover of the television set, exposing the high voltage lead that runs into the top part of the picture tube. Even if the television is unplugged, the tube can shock you: do not touch it in any way. You will also be required to purchase a replacement speaker which needs to match your current speaker in impedance, which will usually be indicated on the magnet. Begin by unplugging your television and laying it, screen down, on a soft surface. Remove any screws (usually Phillips head) from the back of the television shell. Then, pull back on the cover; if you feel resistance, you may have missed a screw or the cover may have snagged on one of the set’s internal wires. Carefully remove these obstacles and set the cover aside. Identify the malfunctioning speaker (whichever one usually emits static noise), and replace it with the new one. Reattach the speaker in the same manner the old one was attached. Replace the television cover and attach with screws. Important: during this process it is very important to make sure none of the internal wiring of the television is jarred, twisted, or broken. Any damage to these components can irrevocably impair the function of the set.

If your television set has a tendency to shut off randomly, it is probably overheating. Permanently remove any objects placed on or too close to the television’s ventilation slats. Use a small vacuum attachment to remove any dust that has built up there. This should successfully prevent your television from randomly shutting off again.

These four techniques will cure 50% of the problems that ail your television set, saving you time and money. If using these techniques does not work for you or if you feel unsure in performing any of them, a professional television repairperson should be contacted. Ask for an estimate and a realistic appraisal of whether the set can be adequately fixed. If not, it may be time to shop around for a newer model.”

Mr. Jack Morrison here after a very busy weekend to talk to you all about appliance repair in Los Angeles.

I’ll be citing an interesting article that has plenty of great information when it comes to household appliances. Today, we’re going to touch upon some information on parts of a washer and dryer unit that I feel people should know more about. It can save time and money if you have a problem with either appliance that you  know how to fix.

So, let’s start with the washer unit first! Here are some components that require general maintenance:

Water-fill Hoses

Over time, the water hoses that came with your new washing machine may leak or burst. It’s a good preventive maintenance practice to check these hoses from time to time for any sign of wear or weakness. Often there’s a small blister in the rubber of the hose, which could rupture. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the hoses every 5 years.

Note… If the hose ruptures, large quantities of water could gush from the hose. If it’s the hot water hose that ruptures, the gushing hot water may scald anyone nearby.

Leveling

Because your washing machine is so heavy, when it’s not level, it can vibrate strongly during the spin cycle. If your washing machine is not perfectly level–with all four legs touching the floor–it can bang and rock back and forth, and even begin to “walk” across the room. This isn’t good for the machine and may damage anything near the machine.

Your washing machine has adjustable, front leveling legs with a lock nut. You adjust the leg to the proper height, then tighten the lock nut up against the body of the machine to keep the leg from rotating.

Some machines have adjustable leveling legs in the rear also, and you can adjust them in the same way. Keep the machine as close to the floor as possible–the lower it is, the less likely it is to vibrate.

Most machines, however, have “self-adjusting” rear legs. You set these legs by tilting the entire machine forward onto its front legs (with the rear legs 3 to 4 inches off the floor) and then setting the machine back down. The legs should adjust automatically. If they don’t, you may need to tilt the machine forward and rap on the rear legs with the handle of a hammer to loosen them–a procedure that’s easier to accomplish with a helper.

Surface Cleaning

Your washer has either a painted steel or porcelain-coated steel cabinet. It’s perfectly safe to use a little dish detergent and a damp rag to clean all of its surfaces. If the surface is porcelain, you can even use a little non-abrasive cleanser for stubborn stains.

Lint Disposal

Most washing machines collect lint during the wash cycle and send it down the drain during the drain cycle.

If your machine is a Maytag, though, it may be different. Most Maytag washing machines collect lint in the center tube of the agitator. You need to lift out that tube and clean it periodically. Other machines have a lint filter near the top of the tub, which you need to slide out, clean off, and reinsert.

Interesting stuff, huh? Now let’s move on to the dryer unit:

Vent

Your dryer vent pipe should be made of aluminum. The white vinyl duct that was common several years ago no longer meets most building codes, because if your dryer ignites it, a fire may start in your home.

Check the entire length of the vent pipe for lint build-up at least once a year–or more often if the dryer gets a lot of use.

Note… Remove the lint from the duct–don’t just push it back into the dryer or let it clog any part of the vent.

You can tackle lint build-up in the duct with our Vent Brush for Cleaning 4″ Round Dryer Vent accessory. It’s available in 10- and 20- foot lengths. See our accessories section for more details.

Interior of Dryer Cabinet

The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.

Lint Filter

Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.

Area Under Lint Filter

You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint.

Note… If the lint build-up is severe, it’s important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there’s a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.

So if your appliances are malfunctioning and you don’t know what’s wrong or how to fix it, don’t risk losing the appliance or your LIFE when you can simply come to Repairfinders.com and get a professional appliance repair service out to your home today!

Thanks for reading, people! Have a great day, and I’ll see you tomorrow!